> Quick answer: If your Neosimply solar lamp isn’t charging in full sun, check for shading, dirty panels, loose wiring, or battery degradation. Ensure the controller is functional and voltage levels match specifications [3][6][25]. Clean the panel, reposition it for optimal sun exposure, and test battery voltage with a multimeter. Replace old batteries or upgrade to a higher-capacity model if needed [1][22].
Solar lighting offers a sustainable, cost-effective way to illuminate outdoor spaces—especially in Romania’s varied climate, where summer sun can be intense but winter days are short. When your Neosimply solar lamp fails to charge despite full sun exposure, it’s rarely a single issue. This guide walks you through the most common causes and evidence-based fixes using real-world data and expert insights.
Common Causes of Charging Failure in Neosimply Solar Lamps
Even high-rated solar lamps like Neosimply models can falter due to system-wide inefficiencies. The root cause often lies in one of several interconnected components.
Battery Health and State of Charge [3][6][25]
A degraded or deeply discharged battery may not accept a charge even under full sun. Over time, lithium or NiMH batteries lose capacity, especially after exposure to extreme heat or cold [6][25]. If the battery voltage is below 3V, it may not trigger the charging circuit, especially if the solar panel output is low [3].
Solar Panel Obstruction or Dirt Buildup [1][3][14][22]
Even partial shading from leaves, dirt, or bird droppings can reduce panel efficiency by up to 30% [3][14]. Regular cleaning with warm water and mild detergent is recommended to maintain peak performance [22]. Avoid abrasive materials that can damage anti-reflective coatings.
Improper Panel Angle or Positioning [1][9][22]
Optimal sun exposure requires adjusting the panel tilt based on seasonal sun angles. In Romania, a tilt of 35–45 degrees is ideal for year-round performance [1][9]. Misalignment can reduce daily energy harvest by up to 20% [22].
Wiring and Connection Issues [1][5][6][16][22]
Loose, corroded, or high-resistance cables cause voltage drops, reducing power delivery to the battery. Use appropriately gauged wiring—especially for long cable runs—to minimize resistance [1][16][22].
Controller or Charging Circuit Malfunction [3][8][10][16][22]
The controller regulates battery charge and prevents overcharging. If it’s faulty, the lamp may not start charging, even with full sunlight. Check for voltage drops between the solar array and controller—significant differences indicate a fault [1][8][16][22].
Step-by-Step Troubleshooting Guide
Follow these validated steps to diagnose and fix your Neosimply lamp’s charging issue:
1. Test Battery Voltage with a Multimeter [3]
Measure the battery’s voltage in the morning. If it’s below 3V, the battery may be dead or deeply discharged. A healthy 3.7V lithium-ion battery should read above 3.2V when idle [3].
2. Clean the Solar Panel
Use a soft cloth, warm water, and mild detergent to remove dust, grime, or bird droppings [3][15][22]. Never use abrasive cleaners—these can permanently reduce panel efficiency.
3. Reposition for Max Sun Exposure
Ensure the panel faces south (in the Northern Hemisphere) and is tilted at 35–45 degrees for optimal year-round capture [1][9][22]. Avoid shadows from trees or buildings during peak sun hours.
4. Inspect All Wiring Connections
Check for loose terminals, corrosion, or frayed wires between the panel, controller, and battery. Tighten connections and replace damaged cables [1][5][6][16][22].
5. Measure Voltage at Solar Array and Controller
Use a multimeter to compare voltage at the panel output and the controller input. A drop of more than 0.5V suggests high resistance or a faulty connection [1][8][16][22].
6. Consider Battery Replacement
If the battery is over 2 years old or has been exposed to extreme temperatures, replace it with a compatible model [6][25]. Upgrading to a higher-capacity battery can extend nighttime runtime.
7. Evaluate Charging Voltage and Current [4][12]
Some lamps require a minimum voltage (e.g., 5V) to initiate charging. If your panel outputs less than this even in full sun, the charging circuit may not activate. In low-light conditions, consider using an MPPT-based controller for better efficiency [4][20].
Comparison: Solar Lamp Components & Their Impact on Charging
| Component | Role | Common Failure | Fix |
|–––|––|–––––-|––|
| Solar Panel | Converts sunlight to electricity | Dirt, shading, damage | Clean, reposition, replace [1][3][14][22] |
| Battery | Stores energy | Degradation, deep discharge | Replace if >2 years old [6][25] |
| Controller | Manages charge/discharge | Malfunction, voltage drop | Test voltage, replace if faulty [3][8][16][22] |
| Wiring | Transfers power | Loose, corroded, high resistance | Inspect, tighten, replace [1][5][16][22] |
Key Takeaways
- Clean solar panels regularly—dirt can reduce efficiency by up to 30% [3][14].
- A battery below 3V may not charge, even in full sun [3].
- Optimal panel tilt in Romania is 35–45 degrees for year-round performance [1][9].
- Always use a multimeter to verify voltage at both panel and controller [1][8].
- Replace batteries older than 2 years or those exposed to extreme temperatures [6][25].
References
- [1] Solar Electricity Handbook_ A Simple, Practical Guide to Solar Energy — book
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solar panels or on any run of wiring. It could be a faulty connection or a damaged cable that is causing the problems. Carry out another site survey and ensure there are no obstructions between the solar array and the sun. Double-check that the array itself is in the right position to capture the sun at solar noon. Finally, check that the array is at the optimum angle to collect sunlight. If you are experiencing these problems only at a certain time of the year, it is worth adjusting the angle of the solar panel to provide the maximum potential power generation during this time, even if this means compromising power Check the voltage at the solar array using a multi-meter. Then check output at other times of year. again at the solar controller. If there is a significant voltage drop between the two, the resistance in your cable is too high and you are losing significant efficiency as a result. This could be due to an inadequate cable installed in the first place, or damage in the cable. If possible, reduce the length of the cable and test again. Alternatively, If none of that works, you have better quality cable. replace the cable with a larger and ## · Reduce your power load three choices: – · Increase the size of your solar array – · Add another power source (such as a fuel cell, wind turbine or generator) to top up your solar electric system when necessary ## Damaged wiring/ poor connections If you have damaged wiring or a poor connection, this can have some very strange e
- [3] Photovoltaics International Handbook — book
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shaded by an external element. Make sure no panels are missing or damaged. Have a look at your inverter and charge controller to see if they are functioning. Check if all the indicator or status lights and displays are working. Comprehensive troubleshooting If the simple solutions didn’t help solve the issue, we go for a more detailed approach towards finding the problem. A troubleshooting guide is presented below that details various issues along with their possible causes and solutions (Mark Hankins, 2010). Issue Cause Solution 1. Low battery state of charge: “Battery low” indicator light on; charge controller or inverter automatically disconnects, or battery voltage is constantly low No solar charging See Issue 2 (No charging from solar) and Issue 5 (Blown or missing fuse) below Battery liquid level is low (for flooded lead acid batteries) Add distilled water to cells Poor cable connection Look for broken or loose wire and repair if needed Defective battery Measure the voltage of each battery using a multimeter. If there is a significant difference between batteries, replace or repair Battery terminal is loose or corroded Clean and tighten battery terminals Overuse of battery Reduce energy use; charge batteries using solar power or other sources Battery is not taking in charge Confirm the age and history of the battery. Check the manufacturer’s information and manuals. Replace battery bank if it has exceeded expected cycle life. Voltage drop between solar array and battery
- [4] Request_for_Guidance_on_MPPT_Circuit_Design_Forum__bdcd255c — authority
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we did the work for Sandia Labs we had a huge solar panel to work with worth a million dollars. When I did my own personal panel it was just about 100 watts or something. I found that the biggest issue with battery charging was to not overcharge the battery, yet get enough current to charge it when it was needed. Cloudy days were the worst, because there was little power available. What I used as a guide was the voltage. If the voltage got too high, I could shut off the current. But then I found that if I selected the right current level, it would never overcharge. This was with a system that did not have to actually draw power from the battery every single day, yours may be different.
- [5] Solar_Street_Light_From_Germany__5_Fixes_To_Solving_Your_Solar_Street_Light_Not_Working_Solar_Street_Light_Repair__1uYOvYlb4Cs — youtube
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# 5 Fixes To Solving Your Solar Street Light Not Working/ Solar Street Light Repair Source: YouTube — Solar Street Light From Germany URL: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1uYOvYlb4Cs Video ID: 1uYOvYlb4Cs Transcript: generated Welcome to our YouTube channel are you having issues with your solar street light and you are looking for quick fix a solar street light not working situation can be resolved in multiple ways let's discuss the common five fixes one check the solar panel connection carefully examine the wiring between the solar panel and the street light system ensure that all the cables are securely connected without any visible fraying or damage make sure that the connectors are properly seated and tightened to maintain a solid electrical connection if you find any loose connections or damaged wiring during your inspection it is important to rectify them properly two verify battery condition carefully remove the battery from its compartment following the manufacturer's instructions if available inspect the battery for any visible signs of damage leakage or corrosion if the battery appears to be in good condition externally measure its voltage using a multimeter or voltmeter four examine the light sensor inspect the sensor for any visible signs of damage such as cracks loose connections or corrosion these physical defects can impair the sensor's ability to accurately detect light levels resulting in a solar street light not working situation next ensure that the sensor
- [6] Solar_Lights_as_Battery_Chargers_solar_forum_at_permies__238531c2 — reddit
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so light. I have changed out some of the batteries that come with them with what I considered worn out nmhd rechargeable batteries and got much better winter use out of them. When I put it on the meter though I noticed mine only charged when the switch was in the on position. That's obvious but in the on position the light then goes on at dusk draining what you made. So if I wanted to use it as a battery charger I would make sure to turn the switch to off at night, and back to on during the day. It would build up slowly but should work. The NiMH batteries in solar lights are very low capacity, typically 600 mAh in an 'AA' size. If you put in higher capacity batteries, they will never charge properly. (For example, the NiMH AA batteries I use have ranges between 2000 and 2650 mAh, almost 4x the capacity. Even AAA batteries run 800-1000 mAh. Sometimes you can get low capacity AAs at dollar stores.) If you put the solar light AAs in other items, you may find they are slightly smaller or thinner, leading to intermittent contact. Spacers of aluminum foil or paper will help. Bottom line, for me, is that solar lights definitely cannot take the place of a decent quality charger. Douglas Alpenstock wrote:I have tried this, with decidedly mixed results. The NiMH batteries in solar lights are very low capacity, typically 600 mAh in an 'AA' size. If you put in higher capacity batteries, they will never charge properly. (For example, the NiMH AA batteries I use have ranges between 2000 an
- [8] Solar Power World's 2021 Buyer's Guide — book
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The condensers may still be holding charge when the inverter was tested in the factory and they will discharge into your hands. In places such as hospitals and fuel stations, no sparking is permissible. Follow this procedure to avoid sparking. Temporarily tie one end of a ceramic cement resistor (say with 20-watt and 20-ohm rating) to the metal lug of the positive battery wire of the inverter. Bring the other end of the resistor in contact with the positive battery terminal for a few seconds. There will be no sparking as the condensers slowly charge through the resistor. You can then remove the resistor and bolt the lugs on the battery terminals. After connecting the positive wire, connect the battery negative wire (black) to the negative terminal of the battery (bank). If you connect the negative before the positive, there will be a lot more sparking. When the batteries are properly connected, the inverter will make a beep and turn on its battery indicator. When this happens, you can ask the battery personnel to complete the warranty forms with details of your installation. Connect the solar panel to the The wires from solar panel (or the DC MCB) will have to be connected to the inverter. In India, inverters usually have a terminal blocks for this. You will have to use a screwdriver to loosen the screw in the terminals and connect the wires, as per the indicated polarity. ☝In my inverter, the PV (photovoltaic) terminal block had three pairs of connectors. I connected the wir
- [9] 12_Best_Solar_Lamp_Posts_Top_Rated_Lamps_to_Buy__191c85e0 — blog
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higher elevation than surrounding structures. Solar panels will continue to function even if the light is deflected or partially covered by clouds. The rain helps your solar panels run more efficiently by wiping away dust and debris. First, make sure your solar panel is in a sunny location. The brighter it is, the more power it generates and the longer it will keep your lights on. Second, angle your solar lights so that they face south. It will provide them with direct sunlight and allow them to charge more quickly. The brightest solar lights are task lights or spotlights, and the greatest ones may produce brightness comparable to a 40-watt incandescent bulb. That is still not as bright as a standard outdoor spotlight, so in areas where you need powerful, direct light, double or triple up. Solar lights turn off automatically during the day since they convert light into energy to store in batteries. This energy is used to power the light at night. While solar lights require little to no maintenance, they require thorough cleaning to maintain efficacy during their lives. Solar street lights are the sustainable solution for extensive lighting, lowering carbon emissions and environmental impact while increasing community safety and satisfaction. Yes, even on cloudy days, solar lights charge. Although the battery does not charge as quickly, small efficient solar panels can still provide electricity when it is partly cloudy or overcast. In most cases, you do not need to manually tu
- [10] Photovoltaics International Handbook — book
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proper sunshine you may need to reduce your energy use unless you have backup sources to charge your battery. ✓ If your battery is in a low state of charge, you may need to reduce your energy use and allow the battery to fully charge from the solar array or other available sources. ✓ Make sure there is someone responsible for managing and monitoring the solar system. ✓ It is a good practice to keep a logbook to note down information on issues, maintenance schedules, component warranties, repair work, and so on. It will come in handy down the line. Remember you will have the system running for over 25 years! 14.2 Maintenance Best Practices Solar power systems require very little maintenance, much less than a diesel generator or a car. The best way to take care of your system is to inspect your system regularly, to make sure components are kept clean, and to ensure all electrical connections are tight. Be sure to go through the manuals of all the components for maintenance recommendations. It is always good to keep spare parts of components that require replacement such as fuses, mounting system pieces, and fasteners. Also, keep track of the shops where parts are available. Shut down your system first! You should shut down the solar system before any maintenance work that requires you to touch the solar system, First of all, switch off circuit breakers in the DC Combiner box to disconnect the solar array from the charge controller. Then switch off the circuit breaker and isolat
- [12] Running_micro-controller_from_solar_power_Forum__f17b3cec — authority
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# EEVblog® Electronics Community Forum Source: Blog/Web URL: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/running-micro-controller-from-solar-power/ Author: Author Date: 2024-02-20 The issue is that during the day when its cloudy solar panels provide only 3V, but the "Solar Lipo Charger Board CN3065" expects input of 4.4V-6V. Is that 3V the open circuit voltage on a cloudy day? Did you measure it? If not, where did that number come from? And by the way, the low voltage lockout is 3.7V, not 4.4V, so I wouldn't take the 4.4V too literally – you would have to test it. A solar panel will supply as much current as it can at the voltage needed by the charger, but that's only if that voltage is below the open circuit voltage for the illumination level of the sun at the moment. So even if the full charge current isn't supplied, your panels could still supply some current. But the bottom line is that on a cloudy day, the panels won't contribute very much, and wouldn't contribute much if it were an MPPT charger. So you need enough bright sunny days to keep the battery charged. Also, you didn't say, but you also need a very low dropout 3.3V regulator for your STM. The panels may be nominal 5V, but that typically means they can put out close to 6V in bright sun. Do you have any feel for how much current your circuit will draw when running? Will it be sleeping part of the time? That's going to be the biggest determinant of battery life. I have tested a circuit similar to this that used a TP405
- [14] Solar Electricity Handbook — book
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on the solar panels themselves, which can significantly reduce the amount of energy the solar array can generate. Pigeons and cats are the worst culprits for this! Your site may have a new obstruction that is blocking sunlight at a certain time of day. For example, a tree that has grown substantially since you carried out the original site survey. Alternatively, you may have made a mistake with the original site survey and not identified an obstruction. Unfortunately, this is the most common mistake made by inexperienced solar installers. It is also the most expensive problem to fix. This is why carrying out the site survey is so important. To identify if your system is not generating as much power as originally expected, check the input readings on your solar controller to see how much power has been generated by your solar panels on a daily basis. If your solar controller cannot provide this information, use a multi-meter with data logger to record the amount of energy captured by the solar panels over a three-to-five day period. Solutions If you have identified that you are not generating as much power as you should be, start by checking your solar array. Check for damage on the solar array and then give the array a good wash with warm, soapy water and polish using a water- and dirt-repellent glass polish or wax. Check all the wiring. Make sure that there is no unexplained high resistance in any of the solar panels or on any run of wiring. It could be a faulty connection o
- [15] Solar Power World's 2021 Buyer's Guide — book
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to the frame. This is to prevent any unintended tugging of the cables from detaching the junction box. Install the panel in its final location. Route the wires from the solar panel down to where the charge controller is placed. Remove the insulation tape from the wire ends and connect them to the controller terminals. Check the indicators to see if the controller is receiving power from the solar panels and charging the battery. Optionally use a clamp meter around the solar cables to measure the current. In bright sunlight, it should be around the value mentioned on the backsheet sticker and the test report. How can I clean my solar panels? At least once a week, you should clean your solar panels with water and a sponge. In places where a lot of dust falls on the panels, more frequent cleaning will be needed. You can tie the sponge to the end of a PVC pipe and use a hose or spray bottle to splash the water. Pour lots of water first and then apply the wet sponge. Do not press hard on the glass, as you might leave scratches. Do not use any cleaning liquids or solvents, even the ‘authorized ones’, because they will damage the anti-reflective coating on the glass and the water seal near the frames. Cleaning should be done early in the morning before the panels become hot from sunlight — to avoid cracks in the glass. If rain is forecast, you can delay the cleaning so that you can use pure water from the sky. Wear a rain coat but do not hold the sponge on a metal pole. You might at
- [16] Solar Electricity Handbook — book
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this time, even if this means compromising power output at other times of year. Check the voltage at the solar array using a multi-meter. Then check again at the solar controller. If there is a significant voltage drop between the two, the resistance in your cable is too high and you are losing significant efficiency as a result. This could be due to an inadequate cable installed in the first place, or damage in the cable. If possible, reduce the length of the cable and test again. Alternatively, replace the cable with a larger and better quality cable. If none of that works, you have three choices: Reduce your power load Increase the size of your solar array Add another power source (such as a fuel cell, wind turbine or generator) to top up your solar electric system when necessary Damaged wiring/ poor connections If you have damaged wiring or a poor connection, this can have some very strange effects on your system. If you have odd symptoms that do not seem to add up to anything in particular, then wiring problems or poor connections are your most likely culprit. Examples of some of the symptoms of a loose connection or damaged wiring are: A sudden drop in solar energy in very warm or very cold weather. This is often due to a loose connection or damaged wiring in the solar array or between the solar array and the solar controller Sudden or intermittent loss of power when you are running high loads. This suggests a loose connection between batteries, or between the batteries
- [20] CN117955218A_-_MPPT-based_solar_street_lamp_control_system__d7f0e078 — patent
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lamp is improved. According to the invention, when the solar street lamp is controlled, the maximum output power of the photovoltaic solar panel is obtained through controlling the output voltage of the photovoltaic solar panel so as to improve the charging efficiency, and meanwhile, the charging coverage rate of the battery is collected so as to quantitatively analyze the charging and discharging conditions of the battery, thereby being convenient for knowing the illumination condition of the position of the solar street lamp and controlling the operation of the solar street lamp. The preferred embodiments of the invention disclosed above are intended only to assist in the explanation of the invention. The preferred embodiments are not intended to be exhaustive or to limit the invention to the precise form disclosed. Obviously, many modifications and variations are possible in light of the above teaching. The embodiments were chosen and described in order to best explain the principles of the invention and the practical application, to thereby enable others skilled in the art to best understand and utilize the invention. The invention is limited only by the claims and the full scope and equivalents thereof.
- [22] Solar Photovoltaic Energy_ Systems and Design — book
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controller to see how much power has been generated by your solar panels on a daily basis. If your solar controller cannot provide this information, use a multi-meter with data logger to record the amount of energy captured by the solar panels over a three-to-five day period. Solutions If you have identified that you are not generating as much power as you should be, start by checking your solar array. Check for damage on the solar array and then give the array a good wash with warm, soapy water and polish using a water- and dirt-repellent glass polish or wax. Check all the wiring. Make sure that there is no unexplained high resistance in any of the solar panels or on any run of wiring. It could be a faulty connection or a damaged cable that is causing the problems. Carry out another site survey and ensure there are no obstructions between the solar array and the sun. Double-check that the array itself is in the right position to capture the sun at solar noon. Finally, check that the array is at the optimum angle to collect sunlight. If you are experiencing these problems only at a certain time of the year, it is worth adjusting the angle of the solar panel to provide the maximum potential power generation during this time, even if this means compromising power output at other times of year. Check the voltage at the solar array using a multi-meter. Then check again at the solar controller. If there is a significant voltage drop between the two, the resistance in your cable is
- [25] Long_Term_Solar_Lighting_Test_Part_2_electrical_forum_at_permies__343857ed — reddit
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# Long Term Solar Lighting Test, Part 2 Source: Blog/Web URL: https://permies.com/t/170975/Long-Term-Solar-Lighting-Test Author: Date: 2021-11-30 In my exciting previous thread, https://permies.com/t/169620/Long-Term-Solar-Lighting-Test#1336129 I laid out my thoughts on these lights and potential issues (i.e., the solar panel is too small) and how I planned on fixing that. Keep in mind that these solar lights can also be charged via USB. These lights are remote controlled, can come on automatically, be turned on manually, have a dimmer, have a timer for 2,4 and 6 hours. I also use these lights indoors for nighttime lighting. After more discussion with the distributor, Richarm, out of Jamaica, N.Y., the point of which is that they apparently had a batch of bad lithium-ion batteries. I intend to take apart the two offending lights and replace the batteries myself. To aid me with that, Richarm sent me a new set of lights, two 15 foot USB charge cables and 4 short USB charge cables, all gratis. These 2 lights I'll be doing my first fast charging testing on. The thing is with these solar outdoor lights – and these are the best one's I've ever owned – one of two things always happens. 1. They don't charge fully because of undersized solar panels (doesn't matter what style or brand). 2. They do not stay lit from dusk to dawn (especially in the winter). These Richarm lights have that issue solved – they are able to stay on all night, even in the winter. It's the charging where the ha
solar panels or on any run of wiring. It could be a faulty connection or a damaged cable that is causing the problems. Carry out another site survey and ensure there are no obstructions between the solar array and the sun. Double-check that the array itself is in the right position to capture the sun at solar noon. Finally, check that the array is at the optimum angle to collect sunlight. If you are experiencing these problems only at a certain time of the year, it is worth adjusting the angle of the solar panel to provide the maximum potential power generation during this time, even if this means compromising power Check the voltage at the solar array using a multi-meter. Then check output at other times of year. again at the solar controller. If there is a significant voltage drop between the two, the resistance in your cable is too high and you are losing significant efficiency as a result. This could be due to an inadequate cable installed in the first place, or damage in the cable. If possible, reduce the length of the cable and test again. Alternatively, If none of that works, you have better quality cable. replace the cable with a larger and ## · Reduce your power load three choices: – · Increase the size of your solar array – · Add another power source (such as a fuel cell, wind turbine or generator) to top up your solar electric system when necessary ## Damaged wiring/ poor connections If you have damaged wiring or a poor connection, this can have some very strange e
shaded by an external element. Make sure no panels are missing or damaged. Have a look at your inverter and charge controller to see if they are functioning. Check if all the indicator or status lights and displays are working. Comprehensive troubleshooting If the simple solutions didn’t help solve the issue, we go for a more detailed approach towards finding the problem. A troubleshooting guide is presented below that details various issues along with their possible causes and solutions (Mark Hankins, 2010). Issue Cause Solution 1. Low battery state of charge: “Battery low” indicator light on; charge controller or inverter automatically disconnects, or battery voltage is constantly low No solar charging See Issue 2 (No charging from solar) and Issue 5 (Blown or missing fuse) below Battery liquid level is low (for flooded lead acid batteries) Add distilled water to cells Poor cable connection Look for broken or loose wire and repair if needed Defective battery Measure the voltage of each battery using a multimeter. If there is a significant difference between batteries, replace or repair Battery terminal is loose or corroded Clean and tighten battery terminals Overuse of battery Reduce energy use; charge batteries using solar power or other sources Battery is not taking in charge Confirm the age and history of the battery. Check the manufacturer’s information and manuals. Replace battery bank if it has exceeded expected cycle life. Voltage drop between solar array and battery
we did the work for Sandia Labs we had a huge solar panel to work with worth a million dollars. When I did my own personal panel it was just about 100 watts or something. I found that the biggest issue with battery charging was to not overcharge the battery, yet get enough current to charge it when it was needed. Cloudy days were the worst, because there was little power available. What I used as a guide was the voltage. If the voltage got too high, I could shut off the current. But then I found that if I selected the right current level, it would never overcharge. This was with a system that did not have to actually draw power from the battery every single day, yours may be different.
# 5 Fixes To Solving Your Solar Street Light Not Working/ Solar Street Light Repair Source: YouTube — Solar Street Light From Germany URL: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1uYOvYlb4Cs Video ID: 1uYOvYlb4Cs Transcript: generated Welcome to our YouTube channel are you having issues with your solar street light and you are looking for quick fix a solar street light not working situation can be resolved in multiple ways let's discuss the common five fixes one check the solar panel connection carefully examine the wiring between the solar panel and the street light system ensure that all the cables are securely connected without any visible fraying or damage make sure that the connectors are properly seated and tightened to maintain a solid electrical connection if you find any loose connections or damaged wiring during your inspection it is important to rectify them properly two verify battery condition carefully remove the battery from its compartment following the manufacturer's instructions if available inspect the battery for any visible signs of damage leakage or corrosion if the battery appears to be in good condition externally measure its voltage using a multimeter or voltmeter four examine the light sensor inspect the sensor for any visible signs of damage such as cracks loose connections or corrosion these physical defects can impair the sensor's ability to accurately detect light levels resulting in a solar street light not working situation next ensure that the sensor
so light. I have changed out some of the batteries that come with them with what I considered worn out nmhd rechargeable batteries and got much better winter use out of them. When I put it on the meter though I noticed mine only charged when the switch was in the on position. That's obvious but in the on position the light then goes on at dusk draining what you made. So if I wanted to use it as a battery charger I would make sure to turn the switch to off at night, and back to on during the day. It would build up slowly but should work. The NiMH batteries in solar lights are very low capacity, typically 600 mAh in an 'AA' size. If you put in higher capacity batteries, they will never charge properly. (For example, the NiMH AA batteries I use have ranges between 2000 and 2650 mAh, almost 4x the capacity. Even AAA batteries run 800-1000 mAh. Sometimes you can get low capacity AAs at dollar stores.) If you put the solar light AAs in other items, you may find they are slightly smaller or thinner, leading to intermittent contact. Spacers of aluminum foil or paper will help. Bottom line, for me, is that solar lights definitely cannot take the place of a decent quality charger. Douglas Alpenstock wrote:I have tried this, with decidedly mixed results. The NiMH batteries in solar lights are very low capacity, typically 600 mAh in an 'AA' size. If you put in higher capacity batteries, they will never charge properly. (For example, the NiMH AA batteries I use have ranges between 2000 an
The condensers may still be holding charge when the inverter was tested in the factory and they will discharge into your hands. In places such as hospitals and fuel stations, no sparking is permissible. Follow this procedure to avoid sparking. Temporarily tie one end of a ceramic cement resistor (say with 20-watt and 20-ohm rating) to the metal lug of the positive battery wire of the inverter. Bring the other end of the resistor in contact with the positive battery terminal for a few seconds. There will be no sparking as the condensers slowly charge through the resistor. You can then remove the resistor and bolt the lugs on the battery terminals. After connecting the positive wire, connect the battery negative wire (black) to the negative terminal of the battery (bank). If you connect the negative before the positive, there will be a lot more sparking. When the batteries are properly connected, the inverter will make a beep and turn on its battery indicator. When this happens, you can ask the battery personnel to complete the warranty forms with details of your installation. Connect the solar panel to the The wires from solar panel (or the DC MCB) will have to be connected to the inverter. In India, inverters usually have a terminal blocks for this. You will have to use a screwdriver to loosen the screw in the terminals and connect the wires, as per the indicated polarity. ☝In my inverter, the PV (photovoltaic) terminal block had three pairs of connectors. I connected the wir
higher elevation than surrounding structures. Solar panels will continue to function even if the light is deflected or partially covered by clouds. The rain helps your solar panels run more efficiently by wiping away dust and debris. First, make sure your solar panel is in a sunny location. The brighter it is, the more power it generates and the longer it will keep your lights on. Second, angle your solar lights so that they face south. It will provide them with direct sunlight and allow them to charge more quickly. The brightest solar lights are task lights or spotlights, and the greatest ones may produce brightness comparable to a 40-watt incandescent bulb. That is still not as bright as a standard outdoor spotlight, so in areas where you need powerful, direct light, double or triple up. Solar lights turn off automatically during the day since they convert light into energy to store in batteries. This energy is used to power the light at night. While solar lights require little to no maintenance, they require thorough cleaning to maintain efficacy during their lives. Solar street lights are the sustainable solution for extensive lighting, lowering carbon emissions and environmental impact while increasing community safety and satisfaction. Yes, even on cloudy days, solar lights charge. Although the battery does not charge as quickly, small efficient solar panels can still provide electricity when it is partly cloudy or overcast. In most cases, you do not need to manually tu
proper sunshine you may need to reduce your energy use unless you have backup sources to charge your battery. ✓ If your battery is in a low state of charge, you may need to reduce your energy use and allow the battery to fully charge from the solar array or other available sources. ✓ Make sure there is someone responsible for managing and monitoring the solar system. ✓ It is a good practice to keep a logbook to note down information on issues, maintenance schedules, component warranties, repair work, and so on. It will come in handy down the line. Remember you will have the system running for over 25 years! 14.2 Maintenance Best Practices Solar power systems require very little maintenance, much less than a diesel generator or a car. The best way to take care of your system is to inspect your system regularly, to make sure components are kept clean, and to ensure all electrical connections are tight. Be sure to go through the manuals of all the components for maintenance recommendations. It is always good to keep spare parts of components that require replacement such as fuses, mounting system pieces, and fasteners. Also, keep track of the shops where parts are available. Shut down your system first! You should shut down the solar system before any maintenance work that requires you to touch the solar system, First of all, switch off circuit breakers in the DC Combiner box to disconnect the solar array from the charge controller. Then switch off the circuit breaker and isolat
# EEVblog® Electronics Community Forum Source: Blog/Web URL: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/running-micro-controller-from-solar-power/ Author: Author Date: 2024-02-20 The issue is that during the day when its cloudy solar panels provide only 3V, but the "Solar Lipo Charger Board CN3065" expects input of 4.4V-6V. Is that 3V the open circuit voltage on a cloudy day? Did you measure it? If not, where did that number come from? And by the way, the low voltage lockout is 3.7V, not 4.4V, so I wouldn't take the 4.4V too literally – you would have to test it. A solar panel will supply as much current as it can at the voltage needed by the charger, but that's only if that voltage is below the open circuit voltage for the illumination level of the sun at the moment. So even if the full charge current isn't supplied, your panels could still supply some current. But the bottom line is that on a cloudy day, the panels won't contribute very much, and wouldn't contribute much if it were an MPPT charger. So you need enough bright sunny days to keep the battery charged. Also, you didn't say, but you also need a very low dropout 3.3V regulator for your STM. The panels may be nominal 5V, but that typically means they can put out close to 6V in bright sun. Do you have any feel for how much current your circuit will draw when running? Will it be sleeping part of the time? That's going to be the biggest determinant of battery life. I have tested a circuit similar to this that used a TP405
on the solar panels themselves, which can significantly reduce the amount of energy the solar array can generate. Pigeons and cats are the worst culprits for this! Your site may have a new obstruction that is blocking sunlight at a certain time of day. For example, a tree that has grown substantially since you carried out the original site survey. Alternatively, you may have made a mistake with the original site survey and not identified an obstruction. Unfortunately, this is the most common mistake made by inexperienced solar installers. It is also the most expensive problem to fix. This is why carrying out the site survey is so important. To identify if your system is not generating as much power as originally expected, check the input readings on your solar controller to see how much power has been generated by your solar panels on a daily basis. If your solar controller cannot provide this information, use a multi-meter with data logger to record the amount of energy captured by the solar panels over a three-to-five day period. Solutions If you have identified that you are not generating as much power as you should be, start by checking your solar array. Check for damage on the solar array and then give the array a good wash with warm, soapy water and polish using a water- and dirt-repellent glass polish or wax. Check all the wiring. Make sure that there is no unexplained high resistance in any of the solar panels or on any run of wiring. It could be a faulty connection o
to the frame. This is to prevent any unintended tugging of the cables from detaching the junction box. Install the panel in its final location. Route the wires from the solar panel down to where the charge controller is placed. Remove the insulation tape from the wire ends and connect them to the controller terminals. Check the indicators to see if the controller is receiving power from the solar panels and charging the battery. Optionally use a clamp meter around the solar cables to measure the current. In bright sunlight, it should be around the value mentioned on the backsheet sticker and the test report. How can I clean my solar panels? At least once a week, you should clean your solar panels with water and a sponge. In places where a lot of dust falls on the panels, more frequent cleaning will be needed. You can tie the sponge to the end of a PVC pipe and use a hose or spray bottle to splash the water. Pour lots of water first and then apply the wet sponge. Do not press hard on the glass, as you might leave scratches. Do not use any cleaning liquids or solvents, even the ‘authorized ones’, because they will damage the anti-reflective coating on the glass and the water seal near the frames. Cleaning should be done early in the morning before the panels become hot from sunlight — to avoid cracks in the glass. If rain is forecast, you can delay the cleaning so that you can use pure water from the sky. Wear a rain coat but do not hold the sponge on a metal pole. You might at
this time, even if this means compromising power output at other times of year. Check the voltage at the solar array using a multi-meter. Then check again at the solar controller. If there is a significant voltage drop between the two, the resistance in your cable is too high and you are losing significant efficiency as a result. This could be due to an inadequate cable installed in the first place, or damage in the cable. If possible, reduce the length of the cable and test again. Alternatively, replace the cable with a larger and better quality cable. If none of that works, you have three choices: Reduce your power load Increase the size of your solar array Add another power source (such as a fuel cell, wind turbine or generator) to top up your solar electric system when necessary Damaged wiring/ poor connections If you have damaged wiring or a poor connection, this can have some very strange effects on your system. If you have odd symptoms that do not seem to add up to anything in particular, then wiring problems or poor connections are your most likely culprit. Examples of some of the symptoms of a loose connection or damaged wiring are: A sudden drop in solar energy in very warm or very cold weather. This is often due to a loose connection or damaged wiring in the solar array or between the solar array and the solar controller Sudden or intermittent loss of power when you are running high loads. This suggests a loose connection between batteries, or between the batteries
lamp is improved. According to the invention, when the solar street lamp is controlled, the maximum output power of the photovoltaic solar panel is obtained through controlling the output voltage of the photovoltaic solar panel so as to improve the charging efficiency, and meanwhile, the charging coverage rate of the battery is collected so as to quantitatively analyze the charging and discharging conditions of the battery, thereby being convenient for knowing the illumination condition of the position of the solar street lamp and controlling the operation of the solar street lamp. The preferred embodiments of the invention disclosed above are intended only to assist in the explanation of the invention. The preferred embodiments are not intended to be exhaustive or to limit the invention to the precise form disclosed. Obviously, many modifications and variations are possible in light of the above teaching. The embodiments were chosen and described in order to best explain the principles of the invention and the practical application, to thereby enable others skilled in the art to best understand and utilize the invention. The invention is limited only by the claims and the full scope and equivalents thereof.
controller to see how much power has been generated by your solar panels on a daily basis. If your solar controller cannot provide this information, use a multi-meter with data logger to record the amount of energy captured by the solar panels over a three-to-five day period. Solutions If you have identified that you are not generating as much power as you should be, start by checking your solar array. Check for damage on the solar array and then give the array a good wash with warm, soapy water and polish using a water- and dirt-repellent glass polish or wax. Check all the wiring. Make sure that there is no unexplained high resistance in any of the solar panels or on any run of wiring. It could be a faulty connection or a damaged cable that is causing the problems. Carry out another site survey and ensure there are no obstructions between the solar array and the sun. Double-check that the array itself is in the right position to capture the sun at solar noon. Finally, check that the array is at the optimum angle to collect sunlight. If you are experiencing these problems only at a certain time of the year, it is worth adjusting the angle of the solar panel to provide the maximum potential power generation during this time, even if this means compromising power output at other times of year. Check the voltage at the solar array using a multi-meter. Then check again at the solar controller. If there is a significant voltage drop between the two, the resistance in your cable is
# Long Term Solar Lighting Test, Part 2 Source: Blog/Web URL: https://permies.com/t/170975/Long-Term-Solar-Lighting-Test Author: Date: 2021-11-30 In my exciting previous thread, https://permies.com/t/169620/Long-Term-Solar-Lighting-Test#1336129 I laid out my thoughts on these lights and potential issues (i.e., the solar panel is too small) and how I planned on fixing that. Keep in mind that these solar lights can also be charged via USB. These lights are remote controlled, can come on automatically, be turned on manually, have a dimmer, have a timer for 2,4 and 6 hours. I also use these lights indoors for nighttime lighting. After more discussion with the distributor, Richarm, out of Jamaica, N.Y., the point of which is that they apparently had a batch of bad lithium-ion batteries. I intend to take apart the two offending lights and replace the batteries myself. To aid me with that, Richarm sent me a new set of lights, two 15 foot USB charge cables and 4 short USB charge cables, all gratis. These 2 lights I'll be doing my first fast charging testing on. The thing is with these solar outdoor lights – and these are the best one's I've ever owned – one of two things always happens. 1. They don't charge fully because of undersized solar panels (doesn't matter what style or brand). 2. They do not stay lit from dusk to dawn (especially in the winter). These Richarm lights have that issue solved – they are able to stay on all night, even in the winter. It's the charging where the ha